APRIL 19, 2019 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON
My preferred route to recovering from my latest bout of Pisco belly continued to be fasting rather than laying around. My next priority was spending time with my friend, Cris and succumbing to sickness would never do. He was finally free from the work that had held him up the first two days. We share a special bond that was cemented by our now dearly departed friend who first connected us. The same is true for our friend, Chela, making us a forever trio.
Cris had sent me an update while I was still in Tupac Amaru. This was after Felipe and I had finished lunch with Iris and her family and said our goodbyes. We thought we might be back to the district again, possibly the next day, but thank goodness we had done our loving hugs and see-you-laters to them then. A third day wasn’t in the cards so our lovingly extended visit had grown my gratitude even more. Leaving their house and walking towards the district square, I could pick up a publicly accessible Wi-Fi signal. It seemed to cover a small area but had a strong signal and this is where I had picked up Cris’ incoming update.
Thank goodness for Felipe. I don’t know that I would have additionally made it to the park after leaving Iris’s place, before we worked to get a collectivo back. I definitely had to sit down for a bit, before I could take that ride. I was dizzy from the sun and my new sickness. Still I was determined. I would make it back and meet up with Cris for the rest of the day. The original plan was to connect in Pisco’s Plaza de las Armas (the main square) but he was so kind. He would end up waiting downstairs in my hostel lobby, just a little later that day. This meant he was actually sitting sort of diagonal from Felipe who was sitting, resting downstairs after we returned. I was back upstairs, refreshing and working not to keep either of my friends waiting too long. Felipe was dozing when I returned. That made total sense. Our morning and afternoon had been fruitful with bustling activity that was also delicately peaceful.
My intention had been not to keep my latest visitor and old-time friend waiting at all but I really did need to take some extra time because of the looming stomach issues. Like Felipe, Cris looked the same to me. I had to think and mention how we were all just aging like fine wine. I introduced the two of them and we walked out together. We invited Felipe along on our journey (our program) but he mentioned needing to meet up with a friend. He parted ways with us outside and us two, Cris and I, were just primarily in awe of the passage of time and the surrealness that we friends were back here together again.
We are close in age and have a lot in common. We would spend the next several hours walking, chatting and reviewing the city of Pisco. We started at our dear friend’s resting place. It was so hard to believe that he wouldn’t be walking about with us this time. He would have been laughing, teasing and endlessly making sure we were fed at his home with his wife and 2 boys. Cris and I reflected in the cemetery. We stood there, reminiscing, loving, thinking. I felt a peace and a pain. He had been such an integral help to all the volunteers and treated my roommate (at the time) and me to some additional special times. This is family. Cris and I know this, and we decided that he is still here. Energy never disappears, only transforms.
We walked to the new mall area, where I was treated to his favorite ice cream, flavored lucuma, and I wondered if my dessert taste buds existed before this. We sat chatting, savoring and then walked back towards the main square. We would then visit the newly refinished Malecón (waterfront) but first I needed to make a pit stop at the hostel, because as I noted, I am sick. I am very happy but my body knows it is still not ok. I was teasing Cris along the way because it seemed like someone knew him at every turn and knowing now that he is a huge Beyoncé fan, I teased him that he is the one that is actually a pop star. Then I thought, wait, and posed the question whether he would actually be her or Jay Z. He confirmed that it would be the both of them, combined.
Clever that my illness which had momentarily brought me back to my hostel, would put us back outside just in time to unexpectedly see our friend Chela walking up the street towards us. It’s a small world, but life is also more magical than coincidental. She was able to join us as we headed towards the water. We stopped at a store along the way, but I filled her in that I shouldn’t and couldn’t be ingesting anything more that day. It was the safest bet. We reached the beach. The boardwalk was the only mainstay of my time there. Cris confirmed this when I wondered out loud and he cautioned me to watch my step. There were gaps in the wood that you could step into, some quite large. The other walkers were enjoying but minding their steps just the same. We looked for a convenient spot to step off. The boardwalk extended over the ground and then further over the water. There were no step like structures off the sides but we watched as a young guy stepped down into a fallen broken side that dipped back to the land. It was both hard wood and reed like. It was perfect. Cris went first and we all had to jump a little to get back to the flat surface. He held his arms up in case we needed a hand down, but we made it smoothly.
They had built so much commercial activity out here now. My! I can only imagine what more interesting moments that us volunteers could have cooked up here had all of this been in place 9 or so years ago. We had entertainment, both existing and self-produced, at the time, but having this and the mall area would have opened up all kinds of new possibilities.
The three of us chatted back towards the square. We came upon the large elevated Pisco sign as the night enveloped us. Chela would depart from here, right after we said our goodbyes and took our last group pictures for now. Cris walked me back to my door. How sweet it is to be taken from point A all around back to point A again. My healthcare-app pedometer put me at well over 15,000 lovely steps that day.
I spent the next day and a half not eating (still being considerably sick) and wrapping up tasks. I had one outstanding translation assignment that was to be due shortly. I would submit it from Pisco, making me officially a digital nomad in my mind (though I still have a full-time day job).
Felipe and I had actually been invited back to Villa Tupac Amaru for a third day for the community celebration, but I realized that I really needed the day to let myself continue healing while I simultaneously took care of business. One special errand was for another local friend who I only got to see a little and who wasn’t doing so well. I also needed to organize my possessions, both old and new, and finally, I wanted to pick up some quality Pisco liquor to bring back to my dear friend in the DMV (DC/Maryland/Virginia). Cris had given me the name of two high-level brands. I recall that I had my first Pisco Sour when I lived in Pisco (per it being the city of its origin despite Chile’s protest) and I had my best Pisco Sours there. I wondered if they were made with Portón or Biondi.
My go to stop didn’t have the proper brands, but the cashier here directed me to an alternative stop
My last day was successful with task completion although sickness was still threatening to overtake me. There was the heat, the dizziness, and the lack of food (because I didn’t want to risk eating). Still I needed to persevere, and I had faith that I’d be normal again soon. At first, I felt like I wasn’t going to make it through the local bank line (I stepped out twice.) The standing for so long was getting the better of me but I kept thinking of this other local friend who was unlike the ones who had been treating me over the last few days. I made it through. Mission complete.
Though I hadn’t been able to see everyone, I thought how I had reconnected under the very eyes of some very dear friends. I had visited the former area of the Pisco Sin Fronteras house and walked by the doors of our former home. I had seen our spot when I wasn’t sure I would. I walked along much of the city, much of our old stomping grounds. I was here and there and feeling complete. A life full circle was reminding me more of my goals. I was finally there again when I knew there was no way I couldn’t be.
Pisco, Peru. I love you dearly. I hold you closely and I’ll see you later. You made me more of who I am and who I plan to be. Thank you, reader, for sharing it with me.
Returning to Pisco, Peru: Part 1 Returning to Pisco, Peru: Part 2
Returning to Pisco, Peru: Part 3 Returning to Pisco, Peru: Part 4