DECEMBER 30, 2019 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON
By winter of 2011, my 183-day volunteer visa in Peru was about to be a wrap and Bolivia was already on my radar as my means to stay longer. (I revisit then with promises of returning to South America soon). I had preplanned my Bolivian journey to some extent. I would need to reset my time in Peru and knew I could do so by visiting this neighboring country. At the same time, my visit would also fulfil some curiosities. My ex (not boyfriend but in the sense of dating someone/trying to make it work) is from there and like Peru, it has the intriguing precolonial history that merges with the modern and remains beautifully present today in the people and the landscape. It’s defiantly brilliant, almost feigning to be coopted by tourism.
Back then, my reasons became more personal after my South American life began. Three of my former co-volunteers from Pisco were now already in Cochabamba, Bolivia and I would find myself gingerly, happily making my way there following my start in the capital of La Paz and adventuring through Sucre. The intent was to get to Cochabamba by one of their up and coming birthdays. I would make it just in time, though with a major blood clot in my leg. It was a condition I had mistakenly deemed a charley horse, aka cramp that didn’t know when to stop. A kind Cochabamban doctor eventually resolved this mystery for me.
I went from Pisco to Arequipa to Cusco. Getting the best in-country tips (before leaving one country) for the best bus companies, I thought I was ready. I was on my way and for a minor moment I thought I wouldn’t have to pay the customary fee for US citizens to enter Bolivia. (The practice was mutual). I wasn’t sure exactly how they were going to charge me. Taking the buses between cities and now countries (instead of flying) seemed so casual to the point I thought I might just roll into La Paz sans the fee. However, when I walked down the bus aisle, continuing all the way to the back, slowly realizing my seat number did not exist, I knew something had to be up. Perhaps this was not something being up in a bad way but rather a reminder to them I was a US citizen. Random to write, I ended up sitting in the passenger side next to the bus driver. The sun was better than any seat warmer I’ve ever enjoyed and I had the added bonus of getting the panoramic scenery of Peru behind me and Bolivia ahead of me – this was more than I could have taken in from the peripheral of a regular seat. This was an effortless picture painting itself out in front of me. I was doing the least (versus the popular expression of “doing the most”). The only other person with this view had to focus on the road. Joke was on them.
We made it to the immigration area, and I was becoming quite jealous of the other travelers having less to do but knew this was more about international government relations rather than personal reasons. I just wanted to be done already and back en route. I had opted for a cute hotel in La Paz and my bed was waiting to be rested in so I could later explore. I remember walking up a steep incline from the bus to the customs offices and feeling my duffel bag beginning to grind into my shoulder. It was also getting to weigh about a ton. I exaggerate though I did start to question my fortitude. Ultimately, I was reminded how adaptable and capable us humans can be.
Unfortunately, I had made the mistake of leaving my Andean migrations card in Pisco, Peru. I had my passport – I needed both. I really thought I lost the card. I would end up finding it much later as I had purposely left my large suitcase at PSF headquarters while I continued backpacking and volunteering around the two countries. Some of my former co-volunteers had graciously made a space for the unneeded items until my return. They were still working on earthquake recovery in the small city. Yet, in all that gear lurked the Andean card I needed to present at customs.
I immediately discovered my mistake would fit in just one category. This would be immigration fraud, according to one officer and a couple of nearby signs. The signs warned anybody attempting immigration fraud would be fined. Consequently, I had a very awkward though fluent conversation (in Spanish) with the security officer who continually asked me what I wanted to do. What did I plan to do?
Well, I had taken the signs to heart and thinking I had no other choice, I planned to settle for the “immigration fraud route” and pay my fine in addition to the US citizen entry fee. As noted earlier, I wanted to be on my way. I responded there were no other options to his repetitive questions. I would have to pay. His last notable reply: “Well, there are other options”. Suddenly, I had the image of myself throwing bolivianos (money) his way as I headed in the opposite direction. (Bolivianos = the Bolivian currency, and interestingly denotes the citizens as well). I had very little interest in “other options” and less and less desire to be hanging out at this border crossing. I fortunately was able to move forward with paying just the fine referenced on the signs and the US entry fee. It wasn’t so important to prove I had done nothing intentionally fraudulent as it was for me to get to the other side. I would never be so intentional…until years later when I’d agreed to go to Cuba😊.
My “riskysafe” more so speaks to daring myself to be light and adventurous. Reflecting back to the moment at Bolivian customs is surreal. I had faith I would be okay though it was still unsettling. There have been a few situations as recent as previewing a beach in Old San Juan without my new companions with whom I later ventured back. It was another fleeting yet too extended moment where an individual had preluded to some not-so-safe outcomes for me. I know others who can relate. Notably, my life in the States, as a native has not come without some unexpected risks as well. We have to be vigilant for ourselves and each other.
Fortunately, while traveling, these moments have been minimal and more often materialized when the sun is shining down around me in virtual paradise while I’m surrounded by good spirits, both local and foreign. It helps me to be brave yet cognizant of ways to practice safety. I’m also reminded there are so many more random positive situations. The smallest and grandest gestures are undeniable. A quick question like which number bus goes to Loiza Street in Puerto Rico and I found locals looking out for my new friends and me.
I see people look out for you not to be lost in their various cultures and traditions. They look out for you to share the space and enjoy your time. There’s suddenly an extra setting for you whenever it’s dinner time. People thank you for coming all this way to help when you feel like you have done just a little. People find a place for you to lay your head when it’s gotten too late or expertly get you back to your dwelling. People smile deeply from ear to ear – just glad you came – just glad you’re there. It’s a reflection of you – grinning back. Turns out, corruption ain’t got much of anything on moments like these.
Image 1 Patrick Fransoo Image 2 Roman Bader Image 3 Dianiel Diaz Bardillo Image 4 jorono