Surprising clarity about my preference for living in Peru strikes me repeatedly. It hits in different ways. Beginning as a feeling of belonging when I first stayed for months in parts of 2010 and 2011, staying with me when I returned to the US, played with when I revisited in 2019 and here again as I experience the main city instead of the others I was in before.
I could live elsewhere, yet the current decision has seemed to narrow down to choosing between Lima and Cusco. I picture myself enjoying both long-term. The key may mean trying both again, but this time, just as a digital nomad rather than a volunteer.
I was trying to consider Mexico. I enjoyed Merida, but perhaps more to visit. I enjoyed Oaxaca, yet my mindset was very much wrapped around touring and relaxing there. I was momentarily considering relocating to other Mexican cities (not Guadalajara) as well, but being back in Peru has reiterated my initial desires of living here.
With further thought: This also does not have to be final, but very possibly some part of my final choices (living in 1 or more countries, including the US).
I am reminded I can change my mind. I can also still try what I am drawn to, what I was dreaming of, mark one experience off the list, fine tune this one or the next one, or set it aside altogether.
Experimenting brings some fear but less daunting vibes, knowing I have been here before and even what I have not done is just a compass for what to try.
Since Guadalajara was tepid to cold, I appreciate having Merida before and Oaxaca after, all the much more.
There is the possibility I had situated myself in the wrong Guadalajaran neighborhood in a mismatched hostel. There is the possibility I was there at the wrong time with standoffish co-guests and staff. They seemed friendlier to one another. Fortunately, I had not experienced such a feeling before nor have I experienced similar, following this one, save a few people who don’t click or clash within the transient groups.
There were the intermittent nice people in the city, but the overall feeling of being in the way, while doing what anyone else was doing, seemed to be a running theme. I had to suddenly realize how my usual experience abroad had spoiled me with kindness, warmth, and excitement. Other places were not without awkward or tense times. Those times were just so far from the norm.
Nice encounters could certainly be nice throughout my visit to Guadalajara, but I still missed some typical courtesies, which I extend as well in my interactions. I am glad Oaxaca reiterated my good and even flattering experiences in Mexico and that Peru is cementing my affection and joy of continuing my travels.
Was this Guadalajara or the city-particular reception to me or just a coincidence to the spaces in which I found myself. Maybe? There were moments I even felt like some of the truly kind people looked somewhat concerned or particularly attentive to me.
I acknowledged my excited expectations had finally waned and coupling my accommodations with a final hotel stay gave me some needed reprieve, for I could hibernate for a day, doing what I wanted to do indoors plus the staff was friendly. I picked up my personal city walk a day later. I opted out of the Tlaquepaque and the Tequila train tour to put money towards my next good times. I am open to doing both later.
I was momentarily concerned that my own energy would shift into a single bitterness. I am eternally grateful for Merida, Oaxaca, and Lima currently. (I may revisit Cusco and the Ica region of Peru again soon).
I do not want to judge or accept only one 7-day stay as my final impression of Guadalajara so I will leave this here and enjoy the time I have traveling now, while continuing to be thankful for all I have been able to do, including the tough lessons learned along with the beauty of the places and the pleasant people who continue to dwell there.
So much to say but mainly speaking to the energy, I sit in my recent visit to Oaxaca city of Oaxaca state, Mexico. I was mainly swept away by the city’s presence and the immense welcome I encountered.
Primarily, I was bracing myself after not such a great stay in Guadalajara, which followed a great experience in Merida (which no doubt had its obstacles but was overall pleasant).
Now, I am glad that reversing the flight order and visiting Guadalajara first made more sense. Based on the flights available, this was the best choice and my overall Mexican stop ended up being sweeter, having Merida as a soft opening, and Oaxaca close the curtain. Guadalajara was a harsh note. Just the same I would not trade the days. I learned some lessons there.
Oaxaca, how insistent was it that I fall in love and right away, third city of this tour-go-round: my heart was captured within minor seconds. The city, locals and other visitors held me close until the end, and in parting ways, there was another insistence for me to come back and share you again and again.
OAX – International Airport – I got here fairly early and in all added fairness, even GDL could redeem itself via its outgoing flight from here (Guadalajara, sorry I will limit my experience to the few neighborhoods I was in and try you again later though I have to admit I’m not very tempted … maybe later).
Well, right away, the friendliness at Oaxaca Airport transported me back to the accommodation and encompassing hospitable feelings I found throughout my stay in Merida. The taxi from the airport did not feel so unfamiliar. Flirtation from an Uber and/or Taxi Driver has not been too unusual in and out of the States. Flattering? Sure. Yet, to be self-assured, I typically have a “boyfriend”. However I am open to dating and new friendships so I discern through the vibes of situations (not that this always goes well). The Oaxacan taxi driver’s interaction felt sweet in between ideas and notes about his city.
Hotel – It was simpler than the one I booked in Guadalajara (better still). Morning began with a complementary Mexican breakfast and a pleasant staff. “I love your hair” (in Spanish) was one of the first greetings I received as I sat down to enjoy the view and food. The place became more like a cozy apartment throughout each of my 4 Oaxacan days. It was funny to realize the first day, I had actually walked the opposite way of the Zocalo and rest of the city’s historical center after dropping off my bags and wandering away to eat up time before my 3pm check-in. After all, my hotel was conveniently located near the Zocalo area.
I tentatively spontaneously had a walking tour planned (if I could find the meeting point) so the main goal was a veggie place before or following a tour and as I explored, I found a city bus tour company instead. I inquired inside and found out it was just 100 pesos, but the company associate also informed me the next tour would not be until 6 pm and she would have to have a certain number of people. Understandable. She asked for my number and said she would give me a call if it was still going to take place. I had some time before then, so I decided I would go ahead and look for the vegetarian-recommended restaurant.
On my way there, I saw a Oaxacan homemade chocolate store (making a note to myself to visit later) ). I had been a little lost, but I recently learned a way not to get so turned when this happens like I did in Merida. (I can attribute this new-found knowledge to my time in Guadalajara).
Now, let’s just have a moment for my meal. My veggie taquitos smothered in jamaica (ha-ma-e-ka) were mouthwatering before and after (I dreamed of them later and I dream of them now😊). I dined in but took the vegan mousse to go. I knew the place was going to be eclectic, and the best ones seem to also include a reading material area. This one had a reading and children’s play area. You immediately get the familiar abroad feeling of being able to relax and enjoy your meal before and after – there was not going to be any rush to turn over my table for another customer. There was space and time to savor. The restaurant is Calabacitas Tiernas.
Still taking my sweet time after I left, I strolled back by the chocolate store while noticing I had a missed WhatsApp call. I correctly assumed it was the tour company. I was touched she had taken the time to update me. I was convinced I wouldn’t make it back in time (it was already almost 6 – I pictured the bus leaving) so I visited the chocolate shop Villa Real. There were artisan objects to buy as well as well as a natural multitude of chocolate treats. The storekeeper offered me a chocolate tasting to which I, of course agreed. Easily. He was skilled at this, offering them to me in varying degrees of bitterness and giving me a chaser after the last one so I wouldn’t be left with a bitter taste in my mouth. (I a deliciously so glad I made it there).
I bought my favorite chocolate from the tasting. He chuckled before we began the taste testing when I told him I like all chocolate types. He had given me history and experience. I asked to take photos and gave him a tip because I really felt he didn’t have to do any of this. I thought I would just be exploring the precious store on my own. He didn’t have to do this, nor did he expect the tip.
I started the walk back in the direction of where I thought the tour bus station was located. It was easy to find. I expected nothing but as soon as I popped my head in, the tour associate began preparing my ticket. Although it was about 5 minutes after 6, the bus had not taken off yet. Several ladies (who I later found out were visiting there from Chiapas), were sitting behind me as she took my pesos and printed my ticket. One of them inquired if I was single and/or traveling alone, solita -(affectionate alone). For some reason, instead of my usual “yes” in Spanish, I answered “For now” in Spanish, to which she and I started laughing. She relayed the message to her friends and said the same was true for all of them.
The Oaxacan tour guide was so thorough including the instructions to intermittently duck, as we were in the top of a double decker and some of the tree branches dipped low. I thought that was clever how he inserted the warnings, between the details of the history, gastronomy, buildings and neighborhoods passes us by. Every moment was in Spanish. We stopped at a hielo stand and encountered another docked tour bus that was notably English tour-guided only. Apparently, the hielo-stand stop was baked into the tours so we could try this local treat. I said hi to my fellow country people already in line (well, they were hardly in line), but I graciously let them make up their minds and gather themselves together (after all, they were there first).
Recommended independent coffee shop in Oaxaca: Marito&Moglie’s Cafe. While I do go to Starbucks quite often due to the freelancer-work-conducive vibe, I like a local indy coffee shop that also contains books, art, history and no doubt: inspiration. For guidance, I completely lifted the Marito&Moglie’s recommendation from Google Pictures and ratings. If I was there longer, I would also try others. I took my laptop, ordered my mocha. Familiarity cushioning new experiences. There is certainly a feeling that accompanies finding a specific treasure.
There is another feeling that matches stumbling upon a treasure: I stumbled into CANTINITA and tried not to stumble out of it. 😉
I knew I wanted to enjoy a drink at the bar. I thought it would be a margarita, but suddenly Mexico and specifically Oaxaca’s other libation seemed most appropriate. Cantanita and its mezcal focus was ideal. I went to the bar and was greeted by a very tall bartender who I later found moved from another Mexican city and state to Oaxaca city of Oaxaca state. I ordered the ensemble of agaves which I did not know much about – which was served with a shot glass serving of water. He poured that first. The mezcal is strong. I enjoyed the moments, taking it in, tasting the special distilled mix. I felt so calm, invited in by the other patrons who welcomed me in. I followed up with the non-alcoholic kombucha. The bartender and I chatted. He gave me a token for a free shot later that night when there would be live music. Naturally this must be redeemed in a few hours. I knew I would be leaving soon.
I searched for a specific library on another day (I like to visit a local public one). This relates to my first hobby as a human, new to Earth. I am transported back to my childhood fascination with reading and my original home state of Ohio. I’m transported to the days I frequented the library and escaped. I am immersed in the creativity and community which readily emanates and like the chocolate tienda, a local gentleman gave me an impromptu tour. He and other Oaxacan students had been a part of a program that studied in the US, and he was working here now. We were in the room of resources for children with disabilities. He also showed me some English language resources. I wandered to explore some more before heading out, we discussed cultural aspects of our respective countries, and I thanked him before heading out.
I was fortunate my short visit also featured some free local performances in the main center. I did not stay for their entirety, but the energy and excitement exchanged between the artists and the crowd encapsulated the almost indescribable uplifting spirit of being in Oaxaca itself. People, art, spirituality, music, food, drinks. Hope to meet these moments again. Thank you, dear Oaxaca. Dear Oaxacans, Thank you.
