Conclusions from Inside Cuba in 2016: A Lot Can Happen in 10 Days June 30, 2020 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON
We were coincidentally following in the footsteps of our new Australian confidants, Emily and Elise, when we headed to Viñales for our second Cuban stop. Their trip was about half the time as ours so a bit accelerated. They would be heading to Mexico next.
Viñales would become my favorite Cuban spot. This vivid horse and cart town had popped up on our checklist. Perhaps we would get to see some caves as well.
It would be a couple of days before we partnered with additional people traveling through Cuba. Occasionally grouping together is good for saving money on trips between cities and a plus for drivers who prefer full carloads in respect to the cost of fuel.
The bus was an occasional option, but there was the limitation of a set schedule. We would jump into the local shared taxis, the classic American car taxis or something of a man-powered bike, depending on whether we were two or more.
Our casa particular (private home) in Viñales was a room that had its own private entrance, so unlike the one in Havana, we came and went without much interaction with the owner (not better, just different). Other than some ants that seemed to think they were renting as well, this place was nice and neat.
Though our rental rooms differed in size and comforts, my belief is they had to be high quality to adhere to just one of so many government-mandated regulations.
We had found this one on the fly – just rolled up without a place to stay and found someone who knew someone who knew someone, as was seemingly the way with all aspects of this tourism market. I didn’t take that chance at all coming from abroad, but once we were inside, it was easy to find places.
Later that night we would meet up with Emily and Elise for dinner, to hang out and incidentally dance the night away.
KT and I had reached Viñales the day before Castro’s 90th birthday, coincidentally. Most people were off work and every nightlife scene we found ourselves in seemed to be in his recognition or a party scene in general. I can see how there can also be quite the contrast of strong feelings for many expats.
We were casually chatting, strolling through the plaza. How lucky the four of us could meet up again. We danced outside. Elise motioned to me and whispered there was a guy behind me, dying to dance with me. I recollected my basic salsa skills. I’m unabashedly prouder of my freestyle ones, so I was relieved I could remember these steps I don’t use too often. I think I can speak/write for everyone. The night swept us away.
KT and I walked to Emily and Elise’s casa particular the next day. Their rental was on a pretty street, one like many others in this town. Each house was a vibrant color, distinct from the ones surrounding it, yet instead of being gaudy, the look was most fitting, more like a painting. Men drifted by slowly on horse-drawn carts. Vintage cars for everyday use rolled by and as we waited with the ladies who were waiting for their tour guide, someone’s exotic bird continued saying “Hola”.
We sat on the porch with Emily and Elise for what we realized was going to be much later than their agreed upon appointment. The experiences of KT and I had been similar, with some delays and some completely missed arrangements. We had to allow for some frustrations, just as other unexpected moments also enhanced the trip.
Their tour guide seemed to appear out of nowhere. Finally. She casually approached the house and we later found she seemed to be working off the radar. Still, we were relieved she made it at all, as Emily and Elise had a bus to catch in just a few hours.
The day was about to be scorching so thank goodness for the breezes, the evenings and proximity to the water. I noticed the pallor and light hair of the guide so when she explained her reason for balancing an umbrella and wearing thick jeans, everything made more sense. I interpreted her Spanish explanation to the others in English. She was extremely sensitive to the sun. The effects could harm her significantly.
KT and I were invited to the walking tour, which included farms, hot springs and the making of Cuban cigars, coffee, and honey. Though we didn’t know what to expect, these were very much on our must-see list. We were excited but just a bit worried about it being too commercial and along the beaten path.
I would conclude there was a mixture of mostly value and some basic selling, Not bad. Marketing can be naturally okay and mutually beneficial. For instance, Emily and Elise’s last day wasn’t going to leave them much more time to explore and what was readily accessible was their best option. Personally, I also like combining what we can learn officially from local guides and residents and what can be left to chance by meeting people and exploring on our own.
My knowledge of Spanish was a bonus since Emily and Elise did not speak Spanish and the tour guide did not speak English. I would act as interpreter, including diplomatically letting our guide know we had to get going several times – keep in mind the ladies had to get their bus soon.
We walked through the farms, nodded to the cowboys who occasionally passed by. We had an up-close tutorial on the making of Cuban cigars under a roof made of fermented leaves. The process from coffee bean to coffee was demonstrated to us as well and we taste tested the famed Cuban honey.
We were in luck for caving after all. We met two German guys in Viñales near Cueva de la Vaca. They had mapped out the cave and invited us along. They were completing their residency (Cuba’s medical community is top notch and the first to send doctors abroad for various medical emergencies and assistance). The off-the-grid guide, from earlier, said we could not reach the cave on our own. I’m glad she was incorrect, whether by accident or design, perhaps thinking it was too risky for her to lead people there.
Emily and Elise were irreplaceable, but we enjoyed hanging out and getting to know our two German friends later over dinner. There is this traveler perspective. There is something naturally intriguing that lends to camaraderie, not that there are no disarming interactions, but a lot of what goes into exploration speaks to being openminded, overall.
This is it. Thank you for taking this look back with me.
We later went to Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Juracao and Mayabeque, while returning to Havana in between stops: We stumbled on a boxing school, stopped to see the Milton Hershey train and found a nearly abandoned energy plant with an employee who volunteered to show us more. We hopped on a local train and for a while we could see we were getting to spaces not frequented by just two tourists, but more so from an organized scheduled tour group (as the plant employee had explained).
Still, we were equally excited to experience much of what was recommended. We ended the day before our return flight in Havana at Fábrica de Arte, (more details in my audio here). Following some missteps, we finally made it inside. If at first you don’t succeed, try try try again.
