JUNE 26, 2020 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON from Inside Cuba in 2016: A Lot Can Happen in 10 Days
The heat became intense during our summer trip through Cuba. I can see why so many air conditioners were part of the luggage our co-passengers were bringing back. Each of our private home rentals (our casas particulares) had a window unit which we used only at night. Perhaps even some or a lot of the people on our flight offered home stays as well. There was quite the network of people involved in the tourist industry, which could include various types of sightseeing, tours, and transportation. As a result, there was typically no shortage of places to stay, places to go or ways to get there. We just needed the proper negotiating and timing.
We lost a couple of half-days on no-luck negotiating. Some good ways to save money were teaming up and splitting rides with 3 or more people in addition to splitting tours. Once inside various cities, we could get to a lot of places on foot, in the local cabs (vintage cars), public city buses or in the more interesting one driver two-seater vehicles.
I had messaged the owner of our first casa particular, Dignora, to let her know our flight was delayed a couple of times so the driver she had arranged for us would stay informed and most importantly not leave us. He didn’t. I handed KT a blue “mosquito repellent” bracelet that looked more akin to the old school coil key chains and I kept the pink one for myself.
Our driver was there, waiting calmly. Our bags retrieved, I spotted him right away. He was holding a makeshift sign – a couple of the letters in our names not quite right. Suddenly, I sensed things were falling into place. If I wasn’t trying to be off the grid, I would have been my regular enthusiastic traveling self from the beginning, but my ease came in waves. Once we reached the sky over Cancun, I was more self-assured and seeing the driver, knowing we were on our way gave me complete comfort. (I figured I would worry later about jumping through a couple more hoops on the way back.)
The driver was mixed in with a group of other people with signs plus those without signs who seemed to have no one in particular to pick up. They were searching and offering. One of them randomly said, “Cassandra”, smiling after he saw the exchange between me and our driver, who led us out quickly, very purposefully. We stopped off at a money exchange kiosk outside the station. The driver was super chill again, directing us over and then smiling, waiting.
Enter and Exit the Fortress:
There was a safe friendly energy surrounding Havana. I know our Wi-Fi access was limited and the country entities were very much state-run. Still, in addition to feeling free from any potential harm, I felt free to explore.
When I write about fortress, however, I am even more specifically picturing Dignora’s house. We had to walk up a few flights to get to the communal area, and back to our room, which was one of about four rooms in her casa particular. Walking up that many steps with my pink duffel back and my suitcase and my backpack was a workout, but I was thrilled. My friend was feeling the climb too. He said, “For real”, when we turned yet another corner on the way up.
The walk up was worth it. The view from the terrace was gritty and breathtaking. We would also have breakfast there a few times for an additional 5 CUCs (pesos convertibles) the money for foreigners like us. (I mention more details on the two currencies in my Spontaneous Audio Suggestion).
We left the house on Day 1 in the late evening. We wanted to get in some sights before nightfall, but not before I lost myself in chatting with Dignora and her husband. All our smiles. What fluid feelings going from being nervous before boarding the plane to feeling relieved. Sometimes I swear it feels like I’m revisiting people I’ve never met before. There is something so familial about a lot of the places I’ve stayed and most of the reception seemingly may be both from my enthusiasm for exploring and bringing my own diversity to tourism.
I took out little replicas of both KT and my country’s flags. I handed them to our host. Dignora had explained she enjoyed having them as mementos from everyone who stayed with her. I believe I was her first quasi-lone visitor from the US. KT’s flag was her first Swedish one. She accepted both with pleasure and I realize one of the kindest things anyone can do is welcome you for exactly who you are. 😊