I am in the Politics and Prose bookstore, in my now DC neighborhood and I wander to the back wall of the travel section.
The last time I was there, I picked up the Lonely Planet edition of Cuba, a book showcasing the off-the beaten-path places to see in the country which still are noted accordingly, and the ones which are not because of the ironic knowledge. Still I like both the tried and true and the little known.
Going back to the office was challenging after 10 days in Cuba, however this was never so real as how I felt after living in Peru and Bolivia.
Not being ready to be back in the US and facing off with the reverse culture shock I had been forewarned about, I realized I could temporarily transition back by staying in a traveler’s hostel before securing another DC apartment. I would also continue my search for desired NGO and/or development work which I was for now more certain I had the field experience.
Years ago, my horizon had been so broadened that I was ironically too open-minded about my own chances and how people would see me back in the States. The ready circumstances or chances I had to orchestrate the next steps was not how I imagined them to be. Perhaps my heart was just too much abroad. Perhaps, I was unfortunate not to get the chances I needed in time.
I did work. I became ill and after finally getting better in the ER and hospital, I leaned towards what was supposedly stable though dulling to my senses. Unfortunately, the work was similar to what I only wanted to do for a little time when I moved to this area years ago, before doing more with international development. I was at another non-profit trade association and unfortunately, I became skillful at the department in which I worked and my knowledge of the operations as I was inclined to do. I imagine most of us are inclined to master our day-to-day responsibility and what is expected of us, so I became proficient at those operations and once again unfortunately, my tenure geared more towards the inner workings of a trade association. Perhaps in a fortunate way, I had to seek out my own international endeavors and my life still mirrored the experiences I sought out during and after my college years. My friends were international and locally from different backgrounds and I was friends with those who represented the mainstream and my own minority background as well.
Perhaps seeking out my own development work here and disaster relief abroad has molded me into being more appreciative of what I have been able to do and kept me from being burned out. Now I get the chance to select from a second passion and do that as I travel. Still, I recall the confusion of coming back and trying to make everything fit and employers keeping me to the box that I submitted to as well because though the work was something to which I was acclimated and had many perks, this was not my first choice. I dedicated about 15 years to organizations that did not truly speak to me. Thank goodness for travel, cool coworkers, other interests on the side and a willpower, though delayed at times, which will not let go.
The attention on my way to the Cuban restaurant on a recent Friday night reminded me of the feeling of casually going out most evenings after volunteering in Cusco, Peru. At the time, the crew was now my three or four closest comrades (being that I had left the scores of volunteer friends in Pisco). We would regularly go the bars and clubs on Cusco’s plaza every night and stay out anywhere between about 3 to 6 am. There were some quieter evenings inside watching a movie, chatting or simply eating out but we most casually spent nights chilling and or dancing to deejays or live music at La Lek, Mama Africa or some other bar/club in the Plaza de Armas (quite different and reminiscent of the other Plaza de Armas – other main squares in L. America). This was easily our stomping ground between volunteering and touring the city.
Only in those cases, (different from this recent November chilly night), imagine replacing the guy on the bus (who had a nice Jamaican accent) with guys from Argentina and Chile who regularly pass through Peru on their “holiday”. Interesting how something unique can become interestingly common. It would be unusual for us not to get approached by a couple of guys from these regions at least a few times an evening or night and the nice thing about traveling to one place is getting even more exposure to other places from visitors outside the current country you’re in and your own. That was Cusco on any night. We had a lot of wandering aspirations in common with our sometimes dance partners or just fellow tourists – and some interesting ideas not so in common.
There was one guy I particularly liked. Now it seems like a lifetime ago. Some moments stick and some people leave quite the impression.
Getting out recently was a reminder of life to come. With my new work arrangement, I am also not on the subway or bus as much – so getting there was more a reminder of the nice convenience more than the necessary part of my life it was to get to my old job. After chatting with another guy (very young), who wanted my number and finally catching up with a friend over good drinks and food, I am ready for the randomness plus camaraderie. After safely getting use to a life a lockdown, it is nice to be back in the midst of people, enjoying good company and diverse cuisines. Dancing is the probably the last thing missing, (at least for now), the familiarity of taking music back from just workouts. Life is promising again, as it always can be with new seasons or just new days. I am reawakening to some potential I had to put on hold.
Wanderlust is very real and I got my first tastes during and after life in Peru and Bolivia. Life after Cuba hit me quite starkly as well and it is not so much that I don’t greatly value my everyday non-traveling days. Quite the opposite. It is only that I acknowledge I have a thirst for more exploring and being immersed in some different energy from time to time. I like to mix it up and be in some different environments, getting to see how different we are and how much we are mostly alike.
Desires and necessities are overarching and at the same time, there are these beautiful landscapes, natural and human-made masterpieces, languages, cuisines and countless customs. Traveling from state to state and city to city houses its thrills as well. Getting to San Diego, Atlanta, Philadelphia, New York, New Orleans, Chicago, Las Vegas, Atlantic City and on and on were the goals just as the literal and figurative steps along the way were the objectives as well. Exhilaration. The travel journey has layers and the recognition is in the present moments we enjoy in getting there and being there. There’s some thrill in meeting the obstacles as well and conquering them or maybe not so much😊
Being in the sky, on the road and being in transit within destinations equals our journeys and the very presence we are spending in places, with people or in perfect solitude is our power and our fortune.
Conclusions from Inside Cuba in 2016: A Lot Can Happen in 10 Days
June 30, 2020 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON
We were coincidentally following in the footsteps of our new Australian confidants, Emily and Elise, when we headed to Viñales for our second Cuban stop. Their trip was about half the time as ours so a bit accelerated. They would be heading to Mexico next.
Viñales would become my favorite Cuban spot. This vivid horse and cart town had popped up on our checklist. Perhaps we would get to see some caves as well.
It would be a couple of days before we partnered with additional people traveling through Cuba. Occasionally grouping together is good for saving money on trips between cities and a plus for drivers who prefer full carloads in respect to the cost of fuel.
The bus was an occasional option, but there was the limitation of a set schedule. We would jump into the local shared taxis, the classic American car taxis or something of a man-powered bike, depending on whether we were two or more.
Our casa particular (private home) in Viñales was a room that had its own private entrance, so unlike the one in Havana, we came and went without much interaction with the owner (not better, just different). Other than some ants that seemed to think they were renting as well, this place was nice and neat.
Though our rental rooms differed in size and comforts, my belief is they had to be high quality to adhere to just one of so many government-mandated regulations.
We had found this one on the fly – just rolled up without a place to stay and found someone who knew someone who knew someone, as was seemingly the way with all aspects of this tourism market. I didn’t take that chance at all coming from abroad, but once we were inside, it was easy to find places.
Later that night we would meet up with Emily and Elise for dinner, to hang out and incidentally dance the night away.
KT and I had reached Viñales the day before Castro’s 90th birthday, coincidentally. Most people were off work and every nightlife scene we found ourselves in seemed to be in his recognition or a party scene in general. I can see how there can also be quite the contrast of strong feelings for many expats.
We were casually chatting, strolling through the plaza. How lucky the four of us could meet up again. We danced outside. Elise motioned to me and whispered there was a guy behind me, dying to dance with me. I recollected my basic salsa skills. I’m unabashedly prouder of my freestyle ones, so I was relieved I could remember these steps I don’t use too often. I think I can speak/write for everyone. The night swept us away.
KT and I walked to Emily and Elise’s casa particular the next day. Their rental was on a pretty street, one like many others in this town. Each house was a vibrant color, distinct from the ones surrounding it, yet instead of being gaudy, the look was most fitting, more like a painting. Men drifted by slowly on horse-drawn carts. Vintage cars for everyday use rolled by and as we waited with the ladies who were waiting for their tour guide, someone’s exotic bird continued saying “Hola”.
We sat on the porch with Emily and Elise for what we realized was going to be much later than their agreed upon appointment. The experiences of KT and I had been similar, with some delays and some completely missed arrangements. We had to allow for some frustrations, just as other unexpected moments also enhanced the trip.
Their tour guide seemed to appear out of nowhere. Finally. She casually approached the house and we later found she seemed to be working off the radar. Still, we were relieved she made it at all, as Emily and Elise had a bus to catch in just a few hours.
The day was about to be scorching so thank goodness for the breezes, the evenings and proximity to the water. I noticed the pallor and light hair of the guide so when she explained her reason for balancing an umbrella and wearing thick jeans, everything made more sense. I interpreted her Spanish explanation to the others in English. She was extremely sensitive to the sun. The effects could harm her significantly.
KT and I were invited to the walking tour, which included farms, hot springs and the making of Cuban cigars, coffee, and honey. Though we didn’t know what to expect, these were very much on our must-see list. We were excited but just a bit worried about it being too commercial and along the beaten path.
I would conclude there was a mixture of mostly value and some basic selling, Not bad. Marketing can be naturally okay and mutually beneficial. For instance, Emily and Elise’s last day wasn’t going to leave them much more time to explore and what was readily accessible was their best option. Personally, I also like combining what we can learn officially from local guides and residents and what can be left to chance by meeting people and exploring on our own.
My knowledge of Spanish was a bonus since Emily and Elise did not speak Spanish and the tour guide did not speak English. I would act as interpreter, including diplomatically letting our guide know we had to get going several times – keep in mind the ladies had to get their bus soon.
We walked through the farms, nodded to the cowboys who occasionally passed by. We had an up-close tutorial on the making of Cuban cigars under a roof made of fermented leaves. The process from coffee bean to coffee was demonstrated to us as well and we taste tested the famed Cuban honey.
We were in luck for caving after all. We met two German guys in Viñales near Cueva de la Vaca. They had mapped out the cave and invited us along. They were completing their residency (Cuba’s medical community is top notch and the first to send doctors abroad for various medical emergencies and assistance). The off-the-grid guide, from earlier, said we could not reach the cave on our own. I’m glad she was incorrect, whether by accident or design, perhaps thinking it was too risky for her to lead people there.
Emily and Elise were irreplaceable, but we enjoyed hanging out and getting to know our two German friends later over dinner. There is this traveler perspective. There is something naturally intriguing that lends to camaraderie, not that there are no disarming interactions, but a lot of what goes into exploration speaks to being openminded, overall.
This is it. Thank you for taking this look back with me.
We later went to Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Juracao and Mayabeque, while returning to Havana in between stops: We stumbled on a boxing school, stopped to see the Milton Hershey train and found a nearly abandoned energy plant with an employee who volunteered to show us more. We hopped on a local train and for a while we could see we were getting to spaces not frequented by just two tourists, but more so from an organized scheduled tour group (as the plant employee had explained).
Still, we were equally excited to experience much of what was recommended. We ended the day before our return flight in Havana at Fábrica de Arte, (more details in my audio here). Following some missteps, we finally made it inside. If at first you don’t succeed, try try try again.
Excerpt from Inside Cuba in 2016: A Lot Can Happen in 10 Days
JUNE 29, 2020 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON
The first day included continued strolls and other stops around Havana.
KT and I took something of a small very manual vehicle to the Malecón, the waterfront, where we would periodically return several times. We gained two new adventurous Australian friends along the way.
The Museum of the Revolution was one of our first self-guided stops.
Having a guide or an impromptu inside person facilitated some experiences. Then there were also plenty of everyday friendly Cuban people ready to share suggestions, advice, and encouragement. We got some okay and really good directions to eateries, the markets, and museums and we got a lot of curious inquiries about ourselves as well. This was true in every Cuban city we visited. We didn’t appear to be the everyday tourists.
There were some temporary fails getting where we intended to be or at least as quickly as we would have liked. We did well on our own as well, while leaving enough time to explore.
There would be some pretty open conversations with residents about the culture and everyday ambience.
We ran into some familiar travelers from spot to spot, also there on holiday. We found ourselves in the midst of multiple celebrations.
There was our planned agenda and then there was another one that kept us returning to Havana between various cities and towns which included Viñales, Trinidad, Cienfuegos, Mayabeque, Guanabo and Juracao. The capital city became quite the temporary home base.😊
JUNE 26, 2020 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON
from Inside Cuba in 2016: A Lot Can Happen in 10 Days
The heat became intense during our summer trip through Cuba. I can see why so many air conditioners were part of the luggage our co-passengers were bringing back. Each of our private home rentals (our casas particulares) had a window unit which we used only at night. Perhaps even some or a lot of the people on our flight offered home stays as well. There was quite the network of people involved in the tourist industry, which could include various types of sightseeing, tours, and transportation. As a result, there was typically no shortage of places to stay, places to go or ways to get there. We just needed the proper negotiating and timing.
We lost a couple of half-days on no-luck negotiating. Some good ways to save money were teaming up and splitting rides with 3 or more people in addition to splitting tours. Once inside various cities, we could get to a lot of places on foot, in the local cabs (vintage cars), public city buses or in the more interesting one driver two-seater vehicles.
I had messaged the owner of our first casa particular, Dignora, to let her know our flight was delayed a couple of times so the driver she had arranged for us would stay informed and most importantly not leave us. He didn’t. I handed KT a blue “mosquito repellent” bracelet that looked more akin to the old school coil key chains and I kept the pink one for myself.
Our driver was there, waiting calmly. Our bags retrieved, I spotted him right away. He was holding a makeshift sign – a couple of the letters in our names not quite right. Suddenly, I sensed things were falling into place. If I wasn’t trying to be off the grid, I would have been my regular enthusiastic traveling self from the beginning, but my ease came in waves. Once we reached the sky over Cancun, I was more self-assured and seeing the driver, knowing we were on our way gave me complete comfort. (I figured I would worry later about jumping through a couple more hoops on the way back.)
The driver was mixed in with a group of other people with signs plus those without signs who seemed to have no one in particular to pick up. They were searching and offering. One of them randomly said, “Cassandra”, smiling after he saw the exchange between me and our driver, who led us out quickly, very purposefully. We stopped off at a money exchange kiosk outside the station. The driver was super chill again, directing us over and then smiling, waiting.
Enter and Exit the Fortress:
There was a safe friendly energy surrounding Havana. I know our Wi-Fi access was limited and the country entities were very much state-run. Still, in addition to feeling free from any potential harm, I felt free to explore.
When I write about fortress, however, I am even more specifically picturing Dignora’s house. We had to walk up a few flights to get to the communal area, and back to our room, which was one of about four rooms in her casa particular. Walking up that many steps with my pink duffel back and my suitcase and my backpack was a workout, but I was thrilled. My friend was feeling the climb too. He said, “For real”, when we turned yet another corner on the way up.
The walk up was worth it. The view from the terrace was gritty and breathtaking. We would also have breakfast there a few times for an additional 5 CUCs (pesos convertibles) the money for foreigners like us. (I mention more details on the two currencies in my Spontaneous Audio Suggestion).
We left the house on Day 1 in the late evening. We wanted to get in some sights before nightfall, but not before I lost myself in chatting with Dignora and her husband. All our smiles. What fluid feelings going from being nervous before boarding the plane to feeling relieved. Sometimes I swear it feels like I’m revisiting people I’ve never met before. There is something so familial about a lot of the places I’ve stayed and most of the reception seemingly may be both from my enthusiasm for exploring and bringing my own diversity to tourism.
I took out little replicas of both KT and my country’s flags. I handed them to our host. Dignora had explained she enjoyed having them as mementos from everyone who stayed with her. I believe I was her first quasi-lone visitor from the US. KT’s flag was her first Swedish one. She accepted both with pleasure and I realize one of the kindest things anyone can do is welcome you for exactly who you are. 😊
Continued from yesterday: Inside Cuba in 2016: A lot can happen in 10 days.
MAY 29, 2020 BY CASSANDRA JOHNSON
Walk around downtown Havana, Cuba
On the other side of the Cancun International Airport was the José Martí International Airport in Havana Cuba. Having landed and made our way through customs, KT and I were initially standing in the wrong area. A Cuban gentleman on the same flight stepped in and directed us to the proper claim area where our luggage would actually be arriving. We thought this would be in moments and speculated there was a good possibility, it might not. About an hour in, we were just good with finally seeing the bags coming our way. Simple relief and gratitude. That could have gone a completely different way in any country.
The thought was to travel through several cities and see as much as possible before the “invasion”. Of course, there was nothing overall wrong with the influx of visitors, but I understood the general sentiment for many travelers was to explore before all things became too touristy. How meta or not meta of us. Still, the idea was to get there before the landscape and energy of the island country became all about the visitor and less about learning and enjoying what was to be shared with us. Notably, the tourism invites more economic opportunity in addition to good relations, so there’s also no need to dismiss what it enhances, especially in the fact of it creating safe, organized experiences as well. The struggle for balance is there like many sections of all our lives. We can ultimately do our best, leaning into the good relations and being cognizant of not participating in any exploitative, opportunistic ones. I think the most helpful aspect for me is remembering I am a guest, acting most accordingly while being mindful of my own best interests as well. I dare myself to try to get 100% of my actions right, following intuition, intelligence and curiosity and I also doubt this will ever happen. Still, why not aim high?
Cuba had already been greatly touched by tourism; we could see; hence we met some amazing European travelers. KT was also visiting from Europe. I was a random American in many instances, though I know there were many visiting. However, with me loosely based on 1 of my government’s 12 approved reasons for traveling there, I was not a part of any official group or of a particular profession. I think it proved a bit random because many of my introductions were met with a surprised smile.
When I look at tourism there, you really can’t fault travelers or locals for alternately affecting one another. The overarching takeaway could be the enthusiastic spirit in which we seek to share each other’s spaces and time.
As I wrote previously, I appreciate the organized tourist opportunities along with some spontaneous exploring. KT and I would prove to have some impromptu skills at getting to do both.
“Oh Cuba, I love you. You make me angry.” My travel partner knew exactly what I meant as we sat there on our second to last day trying to determine if we could make it to our last 3 coveted stops. We had accomplished a lot in 8 days. We had some really high ups and a few downs. The downs came from some failures to get off the beaten track and our ups came from accepting the nice foot-worn welcome paths, and intermittently managing to design our own trek. Our smiles also came from the journey as the destination, the destinations, our chance to meet locals and fellow travelers and getting to bond again following the passing of several years since our time meeting and volunteering in South America.
I was nervous when I arrived in Cancun and especially when that video screen outside of my departure gate advised that the next flight would not be to Havana, but rather back to a destination in the US. Even asking the airline agent outside at the kiosk and her reassuring me the next flight was indeed going to Havana didn’t make me feel assured for long. Another confidence breaker: The cell phone data my cell phone company said I would still have in all of North America was nonexistent. (Access to free Wi-Fi has changed since then and more so my personal cell phone data selections have changed as well. I’ve never been one to closely follow the latest mobile trends.) Ultimately, I used the airport Wi-Fi hotspot to purchase internet access and to periodically connect with my friend on an old computer tablet I had for backup. I kept him posted on our flight status, which was becoming increasing delayed.
I will say nothing of travel regulations for US citizens and how (at the time of printing) and then you needed 1 of 12 reasons to travel there as a US citizen. My friend KS was good. He was coming from Europe and was of course not subjected to such restrictions. However, I did have the advantage of my flights being considerably cheaper than his.
Still I will say nothing of how you can go from the States to one city in Cuba before visiting some others by flying through Mexico or Canada or the Caribbean and I will say nothing but everything about how I was particularly glad to figure this out and how important it was for me to move about Cuba fairly freely, loosely based on 1 of the 12 reasons. I will say nothing of these things and technical legalities but if you reach out to me (and please feel free), I will say everything.Additionally, when you have time, there is some additional info in my 2nd spontaneous audio suggestion. Needless to write, I didn’t seem to be considered much of a threat. Maybe I should be offended. 😊
I also feel pretty fortunate in the authenticity of my experience and reactions, among us and everyone, having gone there not long after President Obama’s visit and how interesting it was that we were there during Fidel Castro’s 90th birthday. People have pretty strong reactions for or against the former leader. This trip was also not long before Castro passed away.
I also felt a reminder of how the people of a place, both here and abroad are not to be seen as a homogeneous representation of their country’s administration. The mainstream news will have you unwittingly thinking otherwise, even subconsciously. So many relatives and connections to the US and vice versa. US flags replicated in several forms here and there, traditionally seen and even as a dress. At times, they were next to flags of Cuba. The trip was going to prove welcoming, intriguing and worth some personal fails especially after getting over my bigger worry of being able to go at all.
Downtown Havana
Inside Cuba 2016 continues tomorrow: A lot can happen in 10 days.
My heart is heavy with all the many lives, now lost to Coronavirus
(COVID-19) in China and throughout the world. With my company’s new option, starting
Monday, of being able to work from home for a week, I will do so accordingly.
As someone who takes public transportation for quite some time to get there and
back, I want to diminish the chance of being a harm to others or myself. Not
everyone has options like I do, and I think people are commendable in all the
various situations they are facing.
The gym has been a good healthy outlet for me to visit daily
(save one alternating day). Working on my healthiness has done some work for my
psyche in general and a nice bonus is that it is within walking distance. I
also find it healthy to be able to be out and about and socialize in these
continued smaller ways – being out – getting to the stores and the gym has been
nice.
Ironically, I already imagine I will get more done working
from home. I already know, per the chance we got to do so for about a month
during our renovation. It has been quite the year already, well actually two
years, I would say, starting with the flood that totaled most of my coworkers’
cars in the parking garage. We’ve had many ups and downs as a team.
Cuba. I coincidentally got a loving message from
Dignora yesterday. I recalled her in my spontaneous
audio suggestion on Wednesday as the first casa particular in which we stayedin
2016. She reached out to check on me and let me know they were okay. I think going
through our tasks with extra special precautions is key. I think deeply even
more of my fam in Ohio (where I grew up) and friends everywhere. I thought I
had some gratitude before but I’m really appreciating life and how friendly and
well-intentioned most people can be.
A lady asked me if I found any food as we were leaving the grocery store today😊. I said, “some” and asked her how she did? We’re lucky, in this particular store in DC, in Friendship Heights. I can’t speak to the whole DMV (DC, Maryland, Virginia area) but it wasn’t rough at the store just a little up the street. Even when the toilet paper section was starkly bare, next to a lot of other products, there was a considerable number of items left. You only had to reach further back than normal for what you would normally get or settle for brands or items, close enough to what you might desire. Also, there was plenty of food stocked in the perhaps not so healthy areas😊. Then, lo and behold, a smiling Safeway employee rolled out a skid of toilet paper next to the self-checkout line to which I was heading. Even then, people only gingerly started taking one 12 pack two-ply at a time. I don’t know what happens after I leave or what’s going to happen but did I ever really know? We’re just kind of very accustomed to life being a certain way – and that’s okay too. A journey is a journey even when we’re close to home.
I promise I’m otherwise articulate and a little less rambling 😊
Casas ParticularesOne nation – Two currencies (at time of posting): CUC (convertibles) for non-Cubans and Cuban pesos/Moneda Nacional(MN) – for Cubans
*Pay close attention, both can be intermingled, but CUC has a higher monetary value.
Malecón de Havana (what I also wanted to share) – Wikipedia describes it nicely.Fábrica de Arte - brilliant space for art (of all kinds), simultaneously a dance venue in Havana
Some Cuban stops:HavanaViñales – one of my favoritesTrinidadCienfuegosMayabeque
Credits: Wikipedia and Lonely Planet for highlighting the references to fond recollections- 😊
